You’ll find a dizzying array of canned tomatoes at the grocery store, often from the same company: whole peeled, crushed, fire-roasted, and beyond. Does it matter which one you choose?

1 (28-ounce can) peeled whole tomatoes, drained and juice reserved, or 20 ounces cherry tomatoes 1 large yellow onion, peeled and quartered ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for ...